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January/February 2010
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Gem Hajj at Quartzsite

By Jordan Clary, Travel Correspondent

The Pow Wow's "public transportation."

Selling jewelry and specimens in Quartzsite, AZ
Marilyn McFate, longtime Quartzsite resident.
Even people who have been coming to Quartzsite, Arizona's Pow Wow Gem and Mineral Show since it was little more than a few rock hounds selling specimens from the tailgates of their pickups have trouble defining exactly what it is that draws them back year after year. “I've tried to describe it to people who've never been here,” says Fred Oliver of Spectragems in Wyoming who, along with his wife, Betty have been coming to Quartzsite since 1986. “I've taken pictures of it when it was empty and when it's full and they just can't comprehend it.”

Long time resident Marilyn McFate surmises that Quartzsite's allure is a combination of weather, wildlife, proximity to the Colorado River, people and, of course, the gemstones. “We have a lot of gem material that can be gathered here in the area. Chalcedony roses are easy to pick up. Fire agate can be found not far from here.” McFate, whose scrimshaw work was on display this year in the main exhibit hall, moved to Quartzsite in1970 with her late husband and has been an integral part of the community ever since. She was one of the founding members of the Roadrunners Gem and Mineral Club which conducts daily field trips during the Pow Wow and leads expeditions throughout the year. As one of the few who live here year round, she annually witnesses the transformation of a sleepy little desert town into a burgeoning RV metropolis. “Quartzsite is like no other place. In the middle of summer we might have 3500 residents, but in winter it grows into the millions.”

Showing off some carvings and polished stones at Quartzsite
David Gray with Oregon sunstone from Dust Devil Mine.

An RV Rendezvous

Checking out some of the gem wares in Quartzsite
Vanessa Angelica Patrick from Gemco Opal Mining with a stunning black opal from the Black Matrix Mine, Honduras.
She's not exaggerating. Driving into Quartzsite from Yuma on Highway 95, you suddenly come upon miles and miles of RVs and trailers spread out across the BLM land as far as the eye can see. Some come from colder climates. Others have chosen the transient lifestyle of trade shows and fairs, spending most of the year traveling a circuit largely dictated by weather and forming temporary communities wherever they happen to be. Some vendors do as many as 50 shows a year. And, of course, many come simply to attend the shows. The Pow Wow is not Quartzsite's only venture. At the same time as the Pow Wow, Tyson Wells held an arts and crafts fair and an RV exhibit offered bargains galore on 5th wheels and travel trailers. Some winter residents were gearing up for an auto show that would be starting soon.

For some Quartzsite is a stop on the way to Tucson. For others it's a destination in itself. The high cost of renting space in Tucson can be prohibitive, but a number of vendors mention that their preference for Quartzsite over Tucson has more to do with crowd than cost avoidance, as well as the easier-going pace of their desert haven. But even those who will be moving on to Tucson say that the Pow Wow's appeal is in its community.

Jack Wang of the J. K. Stone Company.

Making Friends For Life

Polished emerald in preform
Close-up of black opal from Gemco Opal Mining.
Something about Quartzsite does foster making connections. A few years back while traveling in China I fell in love with elegant marble vases from Yunnan Province. So whenever I noticed them at Quartzsite, I had to stop. My favorites were imported by J. K. Stone Company, Ltd. Chatting with their representative, Frank Wang, felt like finding an old friend. Over a cup of pu'er cha—a dark fermented tea, also from Yunnan Province—I told him about an unscrupulous vendor at the Tyson Wells show who tried to convince me of the rarity of the vases and that they were all crafted by a single carver in Yunnan. Wang laughed and said, “Maybe he meant the collective Chinese consciousness.”


jars and carvings
"Peacock jade" marble vases from Yunnan, China, J. K. Stone Company.

Turquoise dealer Joseph Carruthers
Joseph Carruthers of Morning Star Turquoise.
While countries as far flung as Nigeria, Pakistan, and the European Union are represented, the Pow Wow has a distinctive “Americas” feel to it--Montana sapphire, Oregon sunstone, fire opal from Mexico, Kentucky quartz, ivory from Alaska, a black opal from Honduras that's reminiscent of meteorites streaking through the night, Columbian emeralds and enough Brazilian amethyst to cleanse the aura of the entire state. Several North American turquoise miners displayed their turquoise and variscite. Joseph Carruthers of Morning Star Turquoise, Co. in Nevada spoke about the value of collecting turquoise and the issues affecting miners in Nevada. “I live in Crescent Valley, Nevada, which is known as a large turquoise-producing area. Most of those mines are shut down now,” he says. “There are various reasons. Large gold mining operations are coming in and buying people out. There are also a lot of restrictions and expenses if you want to use heavy equipment on the BLM land. You can get around some of the expense by only using hand tools, but it's a lot of work, it takes a lot of time, so a lot of folks are just moving on.”

Turquoise from Mountain Top Mine, Morning Star Turquoise.

Chins Up in Down Times

Polished emerald in preform
Crystal and skins from White Creek Turquoise.
Reactions toward the economy were pretty much split. For every vendor who claimed that things were “off” or slower than usual, another said that while it might not be the best year ever, sales were still being made. Some vendors mentioned that although rock sales were down, equipment and tools were selling well. Robert Beauford says it's important not to panic, “The thing about business is you can't obsess about the days. You don't count your day's take. You don't count your week's take. The month's take is only temporarily relevant. You look at how you’re doing year by year--your one year average, your three year average. Businesses are not built in days. Businesses are built over years.”

The Pow Wow is a good example of the way things can grow over time. The Quartzsite Improvement Association (QIA) has been the energy behind the Pow Wow since 1967. This active all-volunteer, nonprofit organization organizes the events and makes sure everything runs smoothly. Bill Corbett who has been coming to the Pow Wow for 38 years says that in the early days “It was strictly tailgating--just a bunch of us getting together out in the desert and sharing each year. Eventually it grew into this.” Although it has grown into a mighty winter Mecca for snowbirds, Quartzsite still remains true to its origins as a desert rockhound retreat.

For information on Quartzsite or to arrange a field trip contact the QIA: www.qiaaz.org or phone: 928-927-6325.


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